The fly rod is probably the most important item of your equipment and is generally the most expensive. But as it can influence your first few years of fly fishing in either a positive or negative way it is important to make a good choice. Whilst most reputable fly shops will give you good advice, it is best to go in well informed.
- What you are fishing for,
- Where you will fish
- How much money you have to spend
Now all you need to pick is a rod that
- matches what, where and how you fish (rod weight and length),
- is the best quality within your budget
- has an action that suits you,
You need to choose a rod weight suitable for the type of fishing you will do. Rods are given a number that signifies the line weight the rod manufacturer recommends. Line weights start at 1 weight, and progress incrementally through to 14 weight, the smaller the number the lighter the rod. Your choice should be based on the size, power and weight of fish you intend to target. The bigger the fish, the more powerful the rod (and heavier the line weight) required.
|Small stream trout
||#1 – #5
||#4 – #7
|Large freshwater fish (Rivers/Lakes e.g. Steelhead, Carp, salmon or Cod or Smaller Saltwater Species – Kawhai/Barramundi/Bonefish
||#6 – #10
|Larger Saltwater Species – Queenfish/Giant Trevally/Sharks
||#9 – #14
Rods come in a range of lengths to suit a range of applications, but a generally the further you need to cast, the longer the rod. A rough guide follows:
||7 – 8 ft
||8 – 9 ft
||9 – 10 ft
Specialist applications will require specific lengths/weights (e.g. Euro nymphing uses long light rods).
Price and Quality
Rods come in a range of prices and quality. You could spend as little as $60 or as much as $1200 on a fly rod. While price is not a guarantee of quality, you generally will get what you pay for.
The premium rod brands, spend a lot of time and money on research and rod development. Generally their rod blanks have the latest technology, are stronger and lighter. They usually have very good warranties – some are even lifetime warranties – and they will generally repair or replace our rod for a small fee.
There is quality in the the components that are used to make the rod, the cork in the grip, the reel seat, and the line guides. How evenly and evenly and finely the thread that holds the guides is wrapped, is also another indicator of quality. On the cheaper end of the market, you get some poorly designed or made rod blanks. These may cast poorly and often break too easily.You can see the varying quality in the photos below.
Good quality cork grip.
Average quality Cork handle.
Good quality reel seat. Metal well finsihed
Averagereel seat. Roughly finished metal.
Average rod bindings. THick thread and varnish. Average quality runner.
Good quality runner. Finer well finished thread work.
How much should you spend ? You can spend anything up to $1200 AUD to buy a rod, but you do not have to do so to get a quality fishing rod that suits you. Nearly every rod that retails under $100 will be poor quality, if you test a lot of these you may get lucky, but don’t waste your time. On the other hand don’t buy the latest most expensive rod in the shop thinking it will be the best. Buy the best quality rod that fits your budget and try before you buy. Try casting a few different rods side by side if you can. Then pick one you like that also fits your budget.
Rod action is how manufacturers try to explain how a rod much a rod bends and how quickly it unbends during casting and fishing. Rod design is quite complicated, however in general, rods can be classified into 4 groups:
||The top 1/4 of the rod bends, and the rod unbends very quickly at the end of the casting stroke. The rod can be hard to feel, but requires a shorter quicker casting stroke, which makes it easier to cast tighter, and faster loops.
||The top 1/3 of the rod bends, and the rod unbends quickly at the end of the casting stroke. The rod has more feel, requires a slightly longer stroke, but tight fast loops are still possible.
||The top 1/2 of the rod bends, and the rod unbends slower. The rod has even more feel, requires a longer stroke, loop speed is generally slower. Tight loops require better tracking, and control.
||Generally the rod bends all the way through its length, and the rod unbends quite slowly. These rods have a lot of feel, but require very good timing and tracking to make good casting loops. It is easy to over power these rods and generate tailing loops.
For a beginner I recommend Medium or Medium Fast action rods, as they generally easier to learn with. Timing the cast is a lot easier, as they can be cast with a slower rhythm and thus provide the beginner with more time to control the cast. They also provide more feel or feedback through the grip. You will feel a more a progressive change in pressure through the grip as the rod bends and un-bends.
Timing and feel are important for control of the line and leader. Mastering these will begin to give mastery over accuracy, distance and presentation. A medium or medium fast action rod, will make this journey easier and quicker. A bonus is that these rods are more relaxing to use.
Some people will recommend fast action rods, this is mainly because it is harder to over-power them , and hence harder to throw a tailing loop. But these rods generally require better timing and lack feel. These rods are best for distance casting or casting on windy days.
Slower action rods are often favoured by people who like gentle slow presentations, in still conditions. Perhaps small still-waters, or slow streams, where a gentle presentation is required. It takes a very experienced caster to cast these rods well in windy conditions or over long distances. Beginners will usually throw tailing loops that end in a tangle.
You are now a little better informed, so decide for what, where and how you will fly-fish, know your budget, and head to your local fly fishing store. The staff will be able to advise you on some options. Please try a few rods side by side before you make your purchase. Enjoy, smooth casts, and clean tight loops!